Focus on The Attico
JET SET: a cult brand offering luxury sportswear
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Nina Ricci: the Maison that looks to the past with humour

07 . 10 . 2019 by Redazione
Focus on The Attico
JET SET: a cult brand offering luxury sportswear

Nina Ricci’s history is one of family, in which mother and son worked together to achieve success, managing to guide the brand through an entire century.

In 1932, the stylist founded her fashion house at 20 Rue des Capucines, Paris. Entrusted by actresses, dames, and young women with débutante dresses, party clothes and wedding dresses, her pieces combined elegant details with refined fabrics. Nina Ricci was also known for her method: she did not use traditional sketches, but rather preferred to model the garments directly onto the mannequin, then proceeding with the prototype in the workshop.

The real turning point came when her son Robert, then 27, armed with his studies in advertising and economics, decided to take the business to the next level. It was Robert who introduced perfume to the Maison’s business plans, which then saw decisive success. The first perfume was ‘Cœur-Joie’ in 1941, but the fragrance that would become truly iconic would be ‘L’Air du Temps’, thanks also to its unique packaging featuring a cap decorated with two crystal doves.

With time, the Maison underwent many changes, starting with the creative directors that led the ranks and creativities, like Jules-François Crahay in 1954 and Gérard Pipart in 1964. Pipart remained at the brand’s helm for over 30 years and succeeded at keeping up with the times, staying current with combinations and universes that were always new. After 1998, Nina Ricci changed their historic headquarters and moved to 39 Avenue Montaigne following its acquisition by the Spanish group PUIG. In 2009, Peter Copping became creative director. He was responsible for exploring pieces, colours and powdery shades that added a spontaneous, almost magical hyper-femininity to the Maison’s tradition. In 2015, Giullaume Henry, starting with Autumn Winter 2015 2016, changed the register with a strong and sensual touch thanks to inspirations from the worlds of military and utility.

Since 2018, Rushemy Botter and Lisi Herrebrugh have been creative directors, known for their poetic and playful approach to ready-to-wear that looks to the past but with a fresh and humoristic eye. They were immediately assigned to the Spring Summer 2020 collection, representing the perfect synthesis of the vision of these two fashion designers. The pieces are enveloped in a dreamy nostalgic atmosphere and celebrate the Maison’s past through focusing on the contemporary. The collection includes blouses, organza dresses with balloon sleeves, round collars with a retro feel. The stand-out pieces are the spectacular ruffled and pleated mini dresses, like fabric sculptures. Also central to the collection is the floral theme, in the form of vivacious prints or 3D details.

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