The women’s Fall Winter 2019 2020 trends have the timeless charm and the scenographic effect of opera stages. Giving such an allure to the season’s collections are the sartorial cuts of the outerwear. Coats are transformed into long robes and jackets become highly chic garments to evoke the flavour of an aristocratic past. The geometric, complex shapes of the dresses and suits only add to this vintage atmosphere. The looks surprise with refined lines and sophisticated fabric choice, from sheer materials to combed wools. Practicality remains secondary, to give value to the pieces aiming to become a new cult of elegance.
Designers rethink the coat combining it with the shape of the robe. Starting from the shoulders, the rigid sleeves open up, while the jackets are transformed into small capes with shaped cuts. The more geometric lines give the silhouette an aristocratic air and the only exception to this strict feel is played by colours: from check print to starry night-sky fabric.
The fabrics for the blouses and shirts for FW 2019 2020 don’t fall fluidly down the silhouette, but are instead supported by rigid cuts that sharpen the shoulders and don’t follow the curves of the body. Louis Vuitton plays with ruffles, Helmut Lang with sheer fabrics and Loewe has fun with sleeves that curl around the wrist and wings sat on shoulders.
Among the pieces revolving around sartorial refinement, pencil skirts and tube dresses are a must. Both pieces start from the same form-fitting idea, which give women an austere yet confident and seductive look. Likewise, the jumpsuit is also a key item, that adopts sophisticated structure and gives a nod to the 90s.
Sartorial fashion becomes genderless thanks to trouser suits. Both jacket and trousers are designed according to geometric patterns: blazers fall straight on the body, while trousers stay fluid, but in rigid fabrics that define the silhouette more precisely. Some pieces are surrounded by the spirit of the 19th century, such as this stunning Gucci suit.