Majestic, spectacular, opulent. The recently concluded Parisian Haute Couture Week once again confirmed how the dream element is fundamental to its very existence. Haute Couture revolves around the imaginary, a universe made of luxury, craftsmanship at the highest levels and, without any doubt, fantasy. The one belonging to the fashion designers who bring to the catwalk fascinating creatures dressed in pure magic.
Let’s begin with the Christian Dior Maison. Maria Grazia Chiuri takes inspiration from the world of circus but, to do so, she looks at its more poetic and artistic side, through the interpretations that in the past years have been given by Jean Cocteau, Pablo Picasso, but also Cindy Sherman and Richard Avedon. And here she goes, she reveals ethereal, fairy-tale dresses, rich in organza and lamé, with geometries and transparencies.
The same transparencies are also found at Giambattista Valli, this season more audacious than usual, with a moodboard inspired by Ingrès’ works and Helmut Newton’s photography. Next to its oversized volumes of colourful tulle, short dresses appear emphasising the legs, see-through tunics and passionate hues such as cherry red.
For her Limited Edition collection, then, Alberta Ferretti moves towards a less fluid and more constructed approach, made of well-designed silhouettes and sequin enriched patterns, while remaining more faithful than ever to her idea of delicate and at the same time sensual femininity.
On the other hand, architectural volumes capture the attention at Givenchy Haute Couture fashion show. Clare Waight Keller creates sumptuous dresses without forgetting lightness, playing with the characteristics of movement and transparency of vibrant fringes and immaculate lace.
Large, important, scenographic volumes are also seen in Pier Paolo Piccioli for Valentino collection. Floral motifs and colours become the absolute protagonists, alternating prints and embroidery, delicate nuances and strong hues, fluid fabrics and tailored constructions. To give life to a new elegance impregnated with oneiric spirit.